With professionally dispensed skincare on the rise, practitioners need to make their shelf space work for the bottom line
The skincare industry is booming, fueled by informed consumers and the rise of chatter on social media. Anti-ageing products have historically made the most noise in the skincare market, with the anti-acne and anti-redness categories also showing strong growth. According to what Future Market Insights refers to as the trend towards ‘increasing personal investment in self-grooming,’ anti-wrinkle products are expected to reach $12.8B by 2027 with a healthy CAGR of 5.8%1.
The NPD Group reported that sales of skincare products in the US grew 13% in 2018, while makeup sales increased just 1%2. Among the reasons for this boom are new launches, more natural and organic ingredients and brands, subscription plans, walk-in clinics offering facial treatments with home care products, new avenues for product reviews and purchasing, a rise among younger users starting in their teens, and more men getting into a skincare routine. Social media is also driving the path to purchase skin care across all channels, most notably, via Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest.
Dr. Ashley Magovern, Chief Medical Officer of Dermstore.com and founder of Manhattan Dermatology in Manhattan Beach, CA, reflects on some of the major skincare trends; ‘CBD topical products are everywhere. Supplements seem to be hot right now. Sunscreens are starting to add IR protection more and more. Korean skincare and masks continue to be popular among consumers. Home devices are getting better and better, and there is more access for the consumer to have office-like products at home; microneedling, light and laser devices, people are loving jade rollers. Indie skincare lines seem to be really taking over, most of them touting more “natural” and “organic” formulations. The consumer still loves to see botanical and food elements in their skincare.’
Read on for some impressive new entries for 2019 in the physician-dispensed skincare category that shows no signs of slowing down.
This convenient kit features three targeted treatments for day and night. Total Eye® 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy SPF35, Total Eye® Concentrate, plus Total Eye® Hydrogel. Treatment Masks to be used once to twice per week to address the delicate eyelid skin.
According to Dr. Jordana Herschthal, a dermatologist in Boca Raton, FL, ‘My patients and I love the Colorescience® Total Eye™ Restore Regimen. The box contains three products; their best-selling Total Eye™ 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy SPF35 that is a truly innovative eye treatment for wrinkles/dark circles/puffiness with SPF35 protection. It goes on smoothly to the delicate eye area and includes a mineral pigment to immediately brighten dark circles. For night time, there’s a concentrated serum and the final product in the regimen, are cooling hydrogel eye masks that instantly hydrate and refresh tired eyes. The products are safe and effective. In my practice, Total Eye is a total win!’
Mineral Body Sunscreen Lotion SPF30 provides hydrating, chemical-active free sun protection for even the most sensitive skin. This technology helps disperse non-nano minerals evenly, for a sheer application with a lightweight finish. Mineral Body Sunscreen Spray SPF30 provides hydrating, chemical-active free sun protection for all skin types, even sensitive skin. Non-nano Zinc Oxide provides a sheer, lightweight application.
Full Spectrum 360 Sun Silk Crème SPF30 is oil-free and forms a transparent veil upon application. Non-nano Zinc Oxide provides broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection and the plant-derived Full Spectrum 360° complex protects against HEV light, IR, and pollution, plus antioxidants, plant stem cells and niacinamide help promote skin radiance.
According to San Antonio, TX dermatologist Dr. Vivian Bucay, ‘For anyone who wants a lightweight sunscreen that offers so much more than UV protection, I recommend COOLA’s Full Spectrum 360° Sun Silk Crème SPF 30. In keeping with COOLA’s philosophy of mineral-only sun protection and organic plant-based ingredients for added benefits, Sun Silk Crème is so sheer and goes on invisibly that it’s hard to believe it contains 15% zinc oxide. The oil-free formulation contains powerful and proven antioxidants and COOLA’s proprietary Full Spectrum 360° complex, a blend of plant-derived compounds that help protect the skin from environmental damage caused by infrared radiation, pollution, and visible light, including high energy visible light.’
The new DefenAge Men’s Kit offers a simple male-friendly luxurious skincare protocol that includes four key products; a facial cleanser, daily skin renewing cream and serum, and an exfoliating mask to use once or twice per week. Based on DefenAge’s proprietary Age-Repair Defensins® technology, this clinically proven collection helps to visibly improve the texture and appearance of skin without irritation or inflammation. The presentation includes two bonus gifts: a hemp-cotton sports towel and a black toiletry bag.
‘In clinical studies, male participants not only saw dramatic improvement in their facial and neck skin that appeared younger, but also noticed that the skin on their fingertips got softer after applying the product with their hands,’ said Gregory Keller, MD, the principal investigator in initial clinical studies of DefenAge. Mens skincare is trending from millennials to boomers.
Dr Age is a novel range of products and treatments based on how a plastic surgeon horizontally divides the face into thirds: from the hairline to the glabellar line, from the brow to the base of the nose, and from the base of the nose to the chin. Developed by the internationally acclaimed Dr. Nikolaos Metaxotos, MD, PhD, the products were created to micro-target specific areas of the face to achieve maximum results. All skincare products are functional, targeted and focused, achieving a similar result to, or enhancing the results of plastic surgery.
Among the hero products in the launch, 3D Contour Face Serum is a highly concentrated serum that contains peptides that stimulate elastin synthesis. The serum also contains short and long-chain hyaluronic acid that refine the skin appearance and the facial contour. The Microlift Face Ampoules act like a lifting serum with instant effect due to the three-dimensional biopolymer. They contain both long and short-chain hyaluronic acids and thus can better penetrate the skin, boosting its elasticity and hydration. The ampoules form a protective barrier on the skin that locks in moisture and gives a more youthful appearance.
According to London plastic surgeon, Dr. Angelika Kavouni, ‘Dr. Age is the first skincare line that speaks the language of a plastic surgeon. The formulas have been developed to act like non-invasive plastic surgery. I believe that aesthetics and lifestyle must go together, and Dr. Age is the only skincare line that incorporates this way of thinking. My patients are seeing results with this innovative range that fits seamlessly into our practice.’
Environ’s new RAD Sunscreen SPF30 is a light and creamy sunscreen formulated for face and body applications with a combination of physical sunscreens as well as their proprietary phyto-complex to help protect the skin from environmental influences and UV damage.
‘Sunscreens are a key part of my recommended anti-ageing regimen. I often recommend mineral sunscreens as a gentle, safe option for sun protection. I like Environ® RAD Sunscreen SPF 30 because it is a mineral sunscreen that is paraben-free and contains antioxidants making it a powerful, safe addition to the anti-ageing regimen for even the most sensitive skin types,’ according to dermatologist Michelle Henry, of Laser & Skin Surgery of New York, in New York City.
The new Lip Polish and Youth Lip Elixir duo is a one-two punch to exfoliate and smooth the delicate lip area. Loaded with antioxidants Vitamins C, E, and B5; rich botanical shea and cocoa butters; and hyaluronic acid, this combination therapy helps to hydrate lips, leaving them feeling soft and healthy.
According to Bonnie Marting, ARNP, Medical Director of Anushka Spa in Palm Beach, FL, ‘I/S Clinical is a perennial favourite brand among our patients. The Lip Polish and Youth Lip Elixir have been very well received because it delivers both on exfoliation and hydration and is an ideal complement to all facial treatments and most especially lip fillers, neuromodulators, and the I/S Clinical peel portfolio. It is a great multi-tasking product choice for year-round use that works equally well for dry, ageing and chapped lips during colder weather and for sun-exposed lips.’
NEOSTRATA launched four new products to their expansive range, now under the Johnson & Johnson portfolio. ENLIGHTEN Brightening Eye Cream with gluconolactone and lactobionic acid plus algae, peptides, and antioxidants; plus RESURFACE Glycolic Renewal Serum containing a 12% glycolic and lactobionic acid blend with EGCG green tea extract for powerful exfoliation. They also introduced two new products to the CLARIFY range: Targeting Clarifying Gel, a spot gel containing 2% salicylic acid, pro-vitamin A, and a triple blend of AHAs (mandelic, Citric, tartaric); and Exfoliating Masque, a potent overnight gel mask with 8% neoglucosamine that gently exfoliates and minimises the appearance of pores for oily skin types.
According to New York City dermatologist Marnie Nusbaum, ‘NEOSTRATA Enlighten Brightening Eye Cream is a favourite of mine as it combines lactobionic acid to diminish signs of ageing around the eyes with peptides to brighten dark under-eye circles and enhance firmness in addition to vitamins C & E for a protective glow!’
Neocutis introduced fresh new packaging for all of the products along with some updates to their signature anti-ageing eye product LUMIERE. LUMIÈRE Illuminating Eye Cream was relaunched with new packaging and an easy-to-use bottle and pump, along with the new and more intense LUMIERE Riche Extra Moisturizing Illuminating Eye Cream. In addition, AFTERCARE Post Treatment Soothing Cream was launched exclusively for physicians’ offices. Neocutis® AFTERCARE was developed to support skin rejuvenation after ablative and nonablative skin treatments, including CO2, fractionated lasers, microneedling, and peels.
According to Dr. Holly Gunn, a dermatologist at Cahaba Dermatology in Birmingham, AL, ‘I love Aftercare. It’s great to have an all-in-one post procedure treatment. I used to have patients place Neocutis Bio Restorative Cream then petrolatum on their treated skin after resurfacing. Now I have all patients use this after ablative and non-ablative resurfacing as well as microneedling. I’ve even used it on my peri-oral dermatitis patients to help heal and soothe them. There are so many uses for this product with the unique PSP (Processed Skin Cell Proteins) with a thick emollient all in one.’
NEOVA® SMART SKINCARE
The Neova skincare range has recently undergone a major update, including some new products and modernised packaging and skin classifications.
The new Neova Power RE Activator (Retinol + EGT) contains stabilised, pure retinol and super antioxidant EGT, intended for primary photoaging skin. It works to correct moderate discolouration, dynamic wrinkling, and early to mild pigment changes.
The Neova DNA Concentrate Activator (DNA + HA) targets progressive photoaging skin with patented DNA repair enzymes to stimulate damaged cells to self-correct with hyaluronic acid to add moisture.
‘Up until fairly recently, the only way to reverse sun damage was to have laser treatments, chemical peels or use retinols and prescription tretinoin creams. A revolutionary innovation is changing that with products that contain DNA repair ingredients. And here’s the wonderful thing: they really do work,’ says New York City dermatologist Debra Jaliman, MD.
The two new products launched by PCA Skin are their Hyaluronic Acid Lip Booster and Vitamin B-3 Brightening Serum.
According to Chevy Chase, MD dermatologist Rebecca Kazin, ‘As we know HA is great at hydrating the skin and the lip is no different. Hyaluronic Acid Lip Booster uses a proprietary HA technology to allow for maximal penetration of the HA to not only hydrate but plump the lip. It also includes collagen-stimulating peptides to reduce lip lines. I am obsessed with this product (and we have sold out multiple times). I have one at home, one in my bag and one at my desk at work. It’s great as a lip gloss or to go over your lipstick. I used to use Aquaphor for this, but this is superior in terms of its cosmetic properties and subtle lip plumping without the traditional lip plumper sting that other products use.’
‘Pigmentation is still such a big problem for patients. We are consistently looking for products to brighten the skin and not irritate. Vitamin B-3 Brightening Serum has a uniquely high percentage of niacinamide, which is a potent antioxidant that also calms the skin. Many other products that claim to use this ingredient only put enough to get it on the ingredient label. Their cosmetic chemist was able to formulate this potent ingredient in a unique way to allow it to maximally benefit the skin. It’s still relatively new, but so far it’s been a big hit. I am using it in a few ways; alone to brighten, in conjunction with hydroquinone, and as a way of giving a break from hydroquinone. I have had no issues with skin irritation and patients love the way it feels on their skin,’ says Dr. Kazin.
Cyspera® is a novel pigment corrector that targets hyperpigmentation. Naturally present in the human body, cysteamine reduces melanin in the skin epidermis to help reverse pigmentation.
According to Montclair, NJ dermatologist Jeanine Downie, MD, ‘Cyspera is a fantastic product that works very well on treating hyperpigmentation on the face and the body. It works in all skin types and must be used under the direction of a board-certified dermatologist. It should be washed off after about 20 minutes as it is a short contact product.’
Invisible Shield Full Physical Sunscreen is Sente’s new broad-spectrum, fully physical sunscreen containing titanium dioxide 5.75% and zinc oxide 11.5%, available in a Tinted SPF52 and Untinted SPF49. They are both cosmetically elegant formulations that have universal appeal.
According to New York City dermatologist, Dendy Engelman, ‘This new physical sunscreen goes on easily and absorbs quickly for an invisible, luxurious, and weightless feel on the skin. It has the highest UVA protection index with pollution shield and blue light defence. It is oil-free, which patients appreciate, and there are two formulas, untinted and tinted, so they have a choice. It ticks all the boxes.’
Skinbetter Science introduced two new products; Instant Effect Gel Eye and Even Tone Correcting Serum Face.
According to Nashville, TN dermatologist Dr. Natalie Curcio, ‘I love the Instant Effect Gel Eye because it is a refreshing daily eye gel that improves the appearance of under-eye bags, fine lines, and wrinkles; the cooling gel provides an instant smoothing effect to the lower eyelid as the patient applies the gel with the stainless-steel rollerball to improve under-eye bags, rough texture, and lines around the eyes. My patients love it because the light gel formulation is excellent for use by itself under eye makeup or in combination with Interfuse Treatment Cream EYE.’
Dr. Melissa Levin, a dermatologist in New York City, ‘SkinBetter Science Even Tone Correcting Serum Face has a hydroquinone-free, retinol-free blend of multiple active ingredients that affect all major biological pathways controlling pigmentation to brighten the skin without irritating the skin.’
Stratpharma Switzerland introduced its long-anticipated topical for the management of stretchmarks that is touted to aid in softening and flattening raised and depressed striae, reduce redness and discolouration, and relieve itching.
‘Stratamark is a novel medical product, specially designed for management of stretch marks. Unlike cosmetic and moisturising products out in the market, Stratamark has therapeutic action for both prevention and treatment of stretch marks. The innovative technology behind it permits Stratamark to hydrate and protect the skin, allowing the skin to normalise the collagen synthesis cycle to effectively prevent and reduce stretch marks. It is made out of 100% medical-grade silicone and is safe to use while pregnant and breastfeeding,’ says Dr. Marc Winter of Orange Coast Women’s Medical Group in Orange County, CA.
U.SK Under Skin was founded in Brazil by N.C. Group with products developed by dermatologists with the expertise of the research and development laboratory Monteresearch® in Milan. Their formulations, pearl, caviar, gold, platinum and diamonds, are associated with the benefits of renewal, remineralization, replacement, and skin regeneration. The newest introductions to the range include; U.SK Precious Elixir Infusion Colloidal, Elixir Infusion Platinum, U.SK Revitalizing Frente Diamond, and Frente Pearl Caviar.
According to New Orleans, LA dermatologist Patricia Farris, ‘The use of gemstones in skincare is a trend that’s gaining traction. We now know that ingredients like pearl, gold, diamond, and platinum have important skin benefits and can be used to rejuvenate ageing skin.’
ZO® SKIN HEALTH
The new ZO Skin Health Firming Serum was specifically designed to visibly tighten and firm the skin to improve the appearance of sagging and skin laxity for a more defined facial contour. Firming Serum contains a new and exclusive ZO® technology that supports the strengthening of the fibres for dermal-epidermal junction integrity and Sodium DNA that supports the fibroblast activity.
According to Beverly Hills, CA dermatologist Sameer Bashey, ‘The bioactive formula supports the structural integrity of the skin by working synergistically with skin’s natural regeneration of collagen and elastin. In a comprehensive 24-week clinical study of 45 participants, the ZO Firming Serum has been proven to improve the appearance of firmness, sagging, elasticity and skin health.’
For more information:
- Future Market Insights. An Incisive, In-depth Analysis on the Anti Wrinkle Products Market. Jan 2019. Available at: https://www.futuremarketinsights.com/reports/anti-wrinkle-products-market [last accessed 3 July 2019]
- The NPD Group. U.S. Prestige Beauty Industry Sales Grow 6 Percent in 2018, Reports The NPD Group. January 2019. Available at: https://www.npd.com/wps/portal/npd/us/news/press-releases/2019/u-s–prestige-beauty-industry-sales-grow-6-percent-in-2018–reports-the-npd-group/ [Last accessed 3 july 2019]