With professionally dispensed skincare on the rise, practitioners need to make their shelf space work for the bottom line
IMMEDIATELY FOLLOWING THE AMERICAN Academy of Dermatology meeting every year, skincare becomes top of mind for all practitioners. With so many new entries into the category of physician-dispensed skin products, it appears that this segment of the aesthetics industry is booming.
North America has historically led the way in this segment, but Asia is quickly catching up and may surpass it both in penetration and overall growth. At the recent IMCAS 2019 Global Market Summit, led by Dr. Benjamin Ascher, the cosmeceuticals segment is holding its own among the top six market segments with a predicted CAGR of 8.1% from 2017–2022. Among their industry prediction, ‘Cosmeceuticals will follow a trend similar to that of injectables with a growth of 8.1% per year and will reach 14% of the world market (1.5 billion euros), allowing this market to further outpace breast implants in value.’
On the investment side, they also noted, ‘Consolidation dynamics have reached a plateau in the dermatology sector with a shift towards skincare,’ citing that 2018 showed an increase in the number of transactions in the skincare segment equal to 61% of the total deal value and 59% of the deal volume.
Driven by an ageing population and the rise of younger patients diving into age-prevention in their 20s, the cosmeceutical market is ripe with brands that offer differentiated and multiple benefits. Pollution exposure has also created new threats for ageing skin, which has contributed to an increase in demand for novel formulations and delivery systems that provide convenience, single serve and travel-sized options, and meet the multi-tasking needs of over-scheduled skincare users. Consumers who buy their skincare from professionals tend to be a well-informed group who know about ingredients and pay close attention to trends. While anti-ageing remains the largest segment, acne therapies are in demand along with skin brightening and pigment control. Customisation also ranks high among these skincare buyers.
Technology continues to play a bigger role in skincare delivery. The new crop of advances allows consumers to customise their skincare regimen and get answers about their specific needs without going to a clinic or retail store. Mobile apps that offer consumers simple ways to evaluate their skin and select products are picking up steam. For example, OKU™, Your Personal Skin Coach, just launched an iPhone connected device to scan your skin and get real-time, personalised skincare advice. Another model, Skintelli™, utilizes the science of epigenetics to identify the current quality of an individual’s skin by taking a quick skin sample and shipping it by mail to be able to match consumers with customized product recommendations from several thousand brands based on DNA profiling.
Another trend to watch is how doctor-driven brands are gaining traction among consumers who are seeking out practices that feature these exclusive brands. Social media channels have had a massive impact on how consumers learn about new science-based products and check them out before they try and buy. They are checking reviews and comparing notes in Facebook groups, on Instagram, YouTube and Pinterest, and searching for real user-generated comments. Even with professional products, brands that are creative and active on these critical platforms can stay visible to their target audiences.
According to Leslie Baumann, MD, Founder of Skin Type Solutions, a unique skincare recommendation platform for physicians’ offices, ‘We have over 120 doctors using our software to generate regimens so I am able to follow trends closely. We are seeing growth in sales and I believe consumers want to buy products from their doctors more and more. I have found that patients are more educated about the science of skincare and are most interested in products with demonstrated efficacy.’
She continues, ‘Retinoids remain a very popular product, but I am seeing them combined with other antiageing technologies that enhance their efficacy without increasing irritations. Examples would be the DefenAge range that contains defensin that encourages stem cells to make new cells, and Sente that contains heparan sulfate to help the cells “hear” better. The best-selling moisturizer among our STS doctors is Zerafite Soothing and Calming Moisturizer which helps dry, sensitive skin types.’
Here are some notable recent physician-dispensed skincare launches to check out. ALASTIN® TriHex Preview Regimen With TriHex Technology® This handy trial kit offers a full regimen of four of ALASTIN’s hero products in TSA-friendly sizes designed to allow for up to four weeks of usage. The kit includes the sulfate-free Gentle Cleanser, Restorative Skin Complex with TriHex Technology, Ultra Nourishing Moisturizer with TriHex Technology, and HydraTint Pro Mineral Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF36. It is positioned for both first time users and devotees of the brand’s TriHex Technology-based product range. TriHex Technology helps support the skin’s ability to rebuild and recycle the extracellular matrix (ECM) by clearing out the damaged by-products of ageing, promoting the skin’s ability to generate new skin.
According to New York City dermatologist Amy Lewis, ‘The TriHex Preview Regimen Kits allow me to introduce my patients to the Alastin TriHex Technology. The kit is the perfect way to show patients the impact of TriHex for a month, allowing them to come back in to purchase full sizes of their favourites.’
Emepelle Day Serum And Night Cream
Emepelle is the first and only skincare range targeting the appearance of Estrogen Deficient Skin (EDS) by harnessing the restorative benefits of patented MEP Technology™, which is clinically proven to safely and effectively help address the root cause of Estrogen Deficient Skin non-hormonally. Emepelle addresses the effects of EDS, including increased dryness, wrinkles, and loss of firmness.
According to Denver Dermatologist Joel Cohen, MD, ‘Up until now, we haven’t had a non-hormonal method to improve dryness, dullness, and laxity in estrogen-deficient skin in menopausal and peri-menopausal women. Clinical studies have shown that women lose 30% of their cutaneous collagen in the five years following the onset of menopause. With MEP, we have a breakthrough in topical skin-care — with MEP functioning as a skin-specific non-hormonal estrogen receptor activator. The 2018 safety study by Zoe Draelos showed that once in the bloodstream, only a completely inactive metabolite of MEP remained, and the 2018 clinical efficacy study showed very significant cutaneous improvement in many parameters including dryness, dullness, laxity and fine lines. In my 20-week open-label study, photos document the very impressive daily patient diary records of major improvement in parameters associated with estrogen deficient skin.’
PEP UP™ Collagen Renewal Face & Neck Treatment
This cream combines Decaplex-10™, an exclusive blend of peptides and antioxidants, with hyaluronic acid and plant-derived ingredients to help support the skin’s own healthy collagen production. Used twice daily, the treatment acts to enhance skin texture and tone, diminish wrinkles, for a rejuvenated look of the face and neck.
‘I’m impressed with the innovation of PEP UP’s formulation — a unique blend of ten peptides combined with cutting-edge antioxidants and ingredients for hydration. In both the clinical study, which we participated in, and at our practice, we’ve seen significant improvements in skin texture and tone in patients who are using this product singularly as well as those who are using it in conjunction with other advanced skincare products,’ said Chicago, IL Dermatologist Amy Forman Taub, MD.
3D Eye Radiance Crème
This newest addition from DefenAge was developed expressly for targeting delicate skin around the eyelids with Age-Repair Defensins®. The gold metal applicator uses Cooling Tip Technology for a finger-free application that provides a cooling sensation to reduce puffiness. For best results, users are advised to apply while skin is still moist by pumping a drop of the cream onto the applicator and lightly dabbing three dots of cream above and below each eye. With continued use, it helps to fade discolouration and reduce the appearance of fine lines under the eyes, and lifts and smooth the upper eyelid area.
According to Dermatologist Dr. Melda Isaac, ‘Defensins stimulate the body’s own dormant stem cells. After using this eye cream, puffiness under the eyes is reduced as well as dark circles. The defensins firm and smooth the fine lines of crow’s feet, upper and lower eyelids. Not many products can be applied to the upper lid without irritation, so this is a breakthrough. The metal tip applicator allows for a cleaner application, and the tip is also soothing to the eyes as the product is applied. It is free of irritants such as parabens, propylene glycol, gluten, and fragrance so even our patients with sensitivities can use it safely.’
1-Step Multi-Cleanse with Natural Prebiotics
Containing Age-Repair Defensins® patent-pending technology, this cleanser can remove waterproof eye makeup, dirt, oil, debris and the effects of pollution while leaving the skin feeling hydrated. Natural prebiotics help to maintain the skin’s protective barrier clean, soft, healthy skin.
According to facial plastic surgeon Jeffrey Spiegel in Boston, MA, ‘One Step Multi Cleanse is what we recommend to prepare the skin for rejuvenation procedures. We trust DefenAge as they deliver on their promises with the most advanced skincare technology currently available.’
Micellar Facial Cleanser
ISDIN Micellar Solution is a no rinse formula that gently removes makeup from the face, eyes, and lips, including waterproof types, without altering the skin’s natural barrier, and is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.
Dermatologist Deanne Mraz Robinson, MD, in Westport, CT, explains, ‘The new Micellar Solution from ISDIN is a great product for patients to use in the morning when you don’t need a deep cleanse, and it’s also great for night time as a pre-cleanse to remove makeup before washing your face. It eliminates impurities gently while respecting skin’s natural barrier.’
This 3-in-1 night serum was developed to work while you sleep by stimulating the skin’s natural antioxidant defences, repairing environmental stress and damages from the previous day and supporting healthy, younger looking skin. It contains Melatonin to protect against free radicals caused by UV radiation, oxidative stress and pollution, Bakuchiol that has natural retinol-like properties, and Vitamin C.
According to David J. Goldberg, MD, JD, a dermatologist in NY and NJ, ‘We are currently doing research studies on ISDIN’s Melatonik and are using it on patients in our three NYC and NJ offices. It is a revolutionary new approach to making skin look brighter, healthier, and less tired and we have been impressed with the results so far.’
Intensive Bio Complete Cream
This hydrating night cream combines Sente’s patented sulfate technology, DSA (Dermatan Sulfate Analog) and CSA (Chondroitin Sulfate Analog), with a 0.5% encapsulated pure retinol to improve skin tone and texture while diminishing coarse wrinkles. Sulfated Glycosaminoglycans improve overall skin health and are natural water binders that aid in controlling inflammation.
According to Boca Raton, FL dermatologist Dr. Jeffrey Fromowitz, ‘Sente’s proprietary Sulfated Glycosaminoglycans work to control inflammation and the combination of sustained release retinol provides faster results for improving rough texture and pigmentation without the side-effects often seen with retinoids. This product is ideal for patients with mild to moderate photodamage or anyone who cannot tolerate higher strength retinoids. Because of the size of the molecules, it is able to penetrate through the surface of the skin to impart greater hydration than products with hyaluronic acid.’
Trio Rebalancing Moisture Treatment™
This super dense triple-action formula rehydrates a compromised skin barrier to bring moisture back to the skin. An ultra-rich moisturising treatment, it can be used for the face, neck, and décolleté. ‘I’m obsessed with TRIO Rebalancing Moisture Treatment. The first time I tried it, I thought, this is the way skin is supposed to feel. The patented formulation has been proven to increase skin hydration by improving skin barrier function, as well as increasing the production of hyaluronic acid and natural moisturising factor (NMF). Skin looks smoother, brighter, and more supple,’ said San Antonio, TX dermatologist Vivian Bucay.
Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight
Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight is formulated with a free acid value of 10% glycolic acid to promote exfoliation and natural cell turnover. This potent night cream contains 2% phytic acid to promote skin clarity and brightness, with a triple action-soothing complex to help support the skin barrier. It can be used as a complement to in-office peels to pre-condition skin.
According to Dr. Joel Schlessinger, Omaha, NE Dermatologist and Founder of Lovelyskin.com, ‘What sets SkinCeuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight apart from other exfoliating treatments is its pH of 3.5 alongside 10% glycolic acid. This optimal combination allows your skin to get the full exfoliating effect every night. Better yet, it matches the cell turnover provided by glycolic acid with the brightening properties of 2% phytic acid. This cream is highly effective, and its combination of soothing botanicals makes it suitable for nightly use.’
Biocellulose Recovery Mask
This single sterile mask features medical grade active ingredients including fractionated hyaluronic acid, green tea polyphenols, caffeine, resveratrol, and peptides to offer instant relief after aesthetic treatments like lasers, microneedling, peels and injectables. The blend of calming botanicals, including Chamomile, Cucumber, Yucca Root Extract delivers an immediate soothing sensation to the skin while reducing the appearance of redness.
Nashville, TN dermatologist Michael Gold was involved in the clinical work on this product. ‘We evaluated the application of this novel mask immediately after RF microneedling for 15–20 minutes, and once daily for one week. It demonstrated a significant reduction in erythema. We found a dramatic increase in patient comfort and an overall faster rate of healing post-procedure. It can also be used at home as a weekly replenishing treatment for patients.’
Brightening Boost Pigment Correcting Cream
Formulated with skin-brightening arbutin, this hydroquinone-free formula harnesses the power of pigment-correcting botanicals to improve discolouration, brighten skin, and even out skin tone. To prevent inflammation, this cream includes peptides and glycerin to support the skin barrier while enhancing overall radiance.
Dermatologist Marguerite Germain says, ‘Our patients and staff are loving the new Topix Brightening Boost Pigment Correcting Crème. I tell my patients to apply the crème right after they apply their retinol at night. They can leave the crème on for 20–30 minutes and pat the excess off or leave it on the entire night for best results. Patients see a brighter complexion, reduction in discolouration and lightened dark spots in just one month of use. This is an amazing alternative product for patients who are pregnant or breastfeeding (with melasma) and cannot use products that contain hydroquinone.’
ZO Skin Health
This rich creme relieves symptoms and calms severely dry or compromised skin and soothes irritation. Key ingredients include soothing shea butter, oatmeal, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Vitamins C, E, Retinyl Palmitate and Beta-Glucan. It replenishes the skin’s natural moisture and restores skin barrier function to speed recovery and reduce itching and redness. Ideal for all skin types, this deeply moisturising formula is especially useful for thinning and sensitive skin to minimise flare-ups. With frequent use, the skin feels healthier, smoother, and more hydrated.
New York City plastic surgeon Z. Paul Lorenc, MD explains, ‘This product is an excellent complement to office procedures to calm traumatised skin. It soothes skin irritation, restores natural moisture to dry, compromised skin post sun exposure, peels, laser therapies, and surgical procedures. We recommend it for the face, neck, and décolleté.’
For more information:
- alastin.com biopelle.com
- defenage.com getoku.com
- isdin.com sentelabs.com