The partnership between NeoStrata Company Inc. and Avon — in the development of the ANEW brand — began 20 years ago, and Barbara Green has worked for NeoStrata for 17 of these years.
Currently Vice President of Clinical Affairs and Technology, Barbara is a pharmacist by background, and formed NeoStrata’s clinical study group, working on anti‑ageing technologies with the founder doctors, who were the original discoverers and pioneers of alpha hydroxy acid.
And now NeoStrata is set to launch a new molecule (with Avon) to the topical anti-ageing market; A-F33 (Aminofill-33), an amino acid derivative that intercepts the mechanism which blocks the production of collagen fibres, which in turn helps to unleash the growth of functional collagen. As a result, collagen production is increased, with the result of a reduction in wrinkle appearance and formation.
Research and development
Through her work at NeoStrata — working with the head of Research and Development — Barbara has played a key role in developing the product for commercialisation, overseeing all clinical studies surrounding any new product innovations. This role feeds into the expertise that NeoStrata has in identifying the best topical treatments for the marketplace.
‘The ingredient [A-F33] was tested to show whether it could affect characterisation of the skin, and make it softer and smoother,’ says Barbara.
‘Next, research was carried out which showed that it has a very quick effect on the skin — especially to the deeper layers of the skin — making it appropriate for use on deeper lines and wrinkles.
‘We’ve been very excited about the data gathered, and happy to partner with Avon to advance the science around this product.’
Indeed, based on Nobel Prize-winning research, with A-F33, NeoStrata were able to identify that the molecule could even be considered a new ‘gold standard’ skincare ingredient.
In the ‘normal’ ageing process, collagen production progressively slows, and fine lines and thin skin gradually become apparent. Faulty enzyme modification in the cells that produce collagen can block the production of collagen in normal cells. A-F33 intercepts this mechanism, allowing more functional collagen to form — as well as stimulating its production — to provide improvements to both fine and deep wrinkles.
‘Through our collaboration with Avon scientists,’ Barbara says, ‘we discofvered the benefits of the A-F33 molecule and we are thrilled about the effects this discovery has on the skin, and what this compound could mean for the future of the anti-ageing industry.’
NeoStrata has developed and marketed a comprehensive range of skincare products, with advanced cosmetic products, to meet the needs of every skin type and on a worldwide basis.
‘As a company, when we’re selling in collaboration with dermatologists, we always look for treatments that would be complementary to what they’re doing in the office. There are patients that love injectable therapies, but not all injectables manage all skincare concerns, such as texture for instance, so this is a perfect example of a partnership of a topical combined with all other modalities available to the dermatologist.’
And in this regard, Barbara believes that the new technology will be well received within the market as a result
of its mechanism of action and resulting benefits.
The future of anti-ageing
In just 20 years, the anti‑ageing and aesthetic industry has changed dramatically, especially when one considers the development of topical therapies. In 1988, for example, Dr John J. Vorhees published the first double-blind study of the effect of Retin-A (tretinoin) on photodamaged skin, concluding that 100% of participants showed an improvement in the appearance of skin texture, wrinkles and discolouration after 16 weeks.
And now, following the development of laser and intense pulsed light (IPL) therapies, the rise of injectables and invasive procedures, skincare regimens remain an essential treatment protocol for the dermatologist.
As these treatment methologies continually develop, Barbara sees trends in skincare moving to the harnessing of genetic and stem cell technologies, through which our own collagen can be stimulated, as well as elastin and fibrillin.
It is for this reason that Barbara and the team at NeoStrata are excited about the continuing partnership with Avon, and look forward to seeing how this new product development will be received by the aesthetic and anti-ageing market.